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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has made the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.